Simmered Shiitake Mushrooms

When you purchase dried shiitake mushrooms, choose ones with thick, meaty, and plump caps that are not spread open. On the surface of these plump caps, you will see a cracked pattern resembling the shell of a turtle. Bring a piece close to your nose; it should smell sweet and aromatic. This is the donko mushroom (the Mercedes of shiitake mushrooms), and the price is twice that of lesser varieties—those with thin, flat, opened caps and thin stems— but the flavor and arom