Osso Buco Milanese

Although Milan is as hectic and harried as any modern city, its cuisine remains stubbornly slow. In the high-tech kitchens of high-rise apartments, pots of risotto linger on stove tops as they creep toward their inevitable creamy conclusion with the help of careful stirring. Casseroles of osso buco bubble in ovens, waiting for the meat to melt and the marrow to leach its richness into the simmering stew.

A continent away, in the land of twenty-minute dinners, we run from such recipe