Veal Stew With Tomatoes and Herbs

One of the most famous dishes of Kakheti is buglama, from a Turkish word meaning “steamed.” In its most basic version buglama is simply boiled beef flavored with dill and garlic, traditionally served at funeral repasts. But buglama can also be made from veal or fish and served on other occasions. I first tasted buglama in Telavi, Kakheti’s commercial center, at a cafe in the former Esperanto Hotel. Our host was Luka Nikashvili, head of catering for the city, who