Wild Mushrooms, Telavi Style

In the spring, a special variety of large, edible mushrooms appears on the trees around Telavi, Kakheti’s main city, providing occasion to eat a well-loved dish not unlike the chirbuli of western Georgia. Because the same mushrooms do not grow in the United States, my recipe calls for shiitake mushrooms or morels, but I caution that this dish will taste only as interesting as the mushrooms you choose. They should be strongly flavored, with firm texture; made with regular field champi