I’m always happy when a restaurant serves bread and butter with dinner, especially when that butter is stylishly presented—pressed into individual shell-shaped medallions, shaved into curls, or sculpted into the shape of a lamb, a tradition in Buffalo around Easter. These butter spirals are like a compound butter and a party decoration rolled (literally) into one. Served with bread, they make a great, spicy accompaniment to sardines, especially when you add a bowlful of