Chef Alex Raij is one of the most enthusiastic spokespeople for tinned fish on the planet, especially when it comes to salty, meaty Basque and Cantabrian anchovies. I still think about a meal I had years ago at her Brooklyn restaurant, Saint Julivert, which featured a pristine half-moon of cold vanilla butter served with a few long, languid, glossy anchovy fillets. This may seem like an unlikely pairing, but the vanilla brings a mellow, floral quality, which moderates the f
