The Tuna Melt

A few years ago, joined by a small group of fellow tinned fish enthusiasts, I went on a tuna melt crawl through Lower Manhattan. (It sounds crazy, I know.) We started at Kossar’s for a petite, round bialy melt, and then made our way to Odessa, B&H Dairy, and Eisenberg’s. And though it’s counterintuitive, with each tuna melt I consumed, I grew more and more hungry for the next one.

To me, the tuna melt is one of the most perfect sandwiches in existence—simple enough that you coul