Pearl Diver’s Marinated Shark Steaks

Apart from providing utterly beautiful examples of perfectly-formed atolls, the Tuamotuan archipelago in French Polynesia has several claims to fame. Its north-easternmost island, Pukapuka (a tiny dollop of coral, 100 miles from its nearest neighbor), was the first land within the Pacific Ocean that the exhausted discoverer, Ferdinand Magellan, sighted. Fortunately for his half-starved sailors there were turtles to kill and fresh water to drink. (Refreshed and replenished, they then headed