This is a French dip or spread to be served with bread. It has such a splendid name.
Dip the cod roe into boiling water for a few seconds (this will make it much easier to skin - like a tomato). Remove all the skin, then put the roe into a bowl of cold water to soak for an hour, to get rid of some of the saltiness.
Soak the bread in water for a few moments, then squeeze it dry with your hands. Put the roe and the bread into a blender or food processor and give it a whiz to mix. Then add the oil and lemon juice alternately, a spoonful at a time, blending until you have a thick, pale mixture.
If you have no blender, pound the bread and roe in a mortar with a pestle, and beat in the oil and lemon juice - as it was always traditionally done.
© 1999 Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright estate. All rights reserved.