This is a Spanish cake, one that used to be made for me by my mother’s Spanish domestic couple, Ferdinand and Isabel. The name always intrigued me as a child, and I still love the richness of the recipe.
Take a 15- by
Put the egg yolks, lemon zest, and half the sugar in a bowl, and whisk hard until the mixture looks like thick, pale custard. This should take 2-3 minutes. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites with the salt until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining sugar and whisk to a glossy meringue. Fold the meringue into the egg yolk mixture, cutting down with the side of a large metal spoon. Sift some of the flour over the top and fold in. Continue to fold in the flour a little at a time.
Pour the cake batter into the prepared pan and bake in a
Sprinkle a piece of parchment paper with sugar. Unmold the cake directly onto the sugared paper and remove the lining paper. Roll up the cake with the sugared paper inside. Wrap in a dampened dish towel and leave to become cold.
For the filling, melt the chocolate in a bowl set over hot water, stirring occasionally. Mix the egg yolks, flour, cornstarch, and cinnamon together to make a paste, adding a little of the milk if needed. Bring the rest of the milk and the sugar to boiling point in a heavy-based saucepan, and pour onto the yolks, stirring continuously. Return to the pan and cook over a low heat, stirring, until the custard is thick and smooth (it will be lumpy at first). Remove from the heat, and stir in the chocolate, vanilla, and rum. Leave until cold.
Unwrap the sponge, unroll it, and remove the paper. Spread with the chocolate filling and reroll. Keep wrapped in the paper in the fridge until it is needed. Serve the same day.
© 1999 Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright estate. All rights reserved.