This is Mappe Toulouse-Lautrec’s version of the classic French maître d’hôtel butter. The well-known cook was also the great-great niece of that well-known artist. I like a lump of it served on top of a nice, juicy sirloin steak, although I usually put some garlic into the butter, too. There are many different versions, and you can mess around until you find one you like. There are a lot of other savory butters, including something called Parisian butter that contains 18 ingredients!
Cream the butter with the back of a wooden spoon until smooth. Work in the finely minced tarragon and the mustard. Salt and pepper lightly, and, finally, work in the lemon juice.
© 1999 Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright estate. All rights reserved.