Our director, the stylish, energetic, enthusiastic Pat Llewellyn, is Welsh so I am making a special effort to remember some of my Welsh dishes to show we love her really, even if we are mean to her when she has us standing on one leg for half an hour. This is a traditional Welsh cockle pie which can be served hot or cold. The Welsh have their own onion known as a tree onion, which is perfect for this dish but not readily available, so use spring onions or chives.