Heirloom Tomatoes with Grilled Shiitakes and Green Goddess

We chefs start scratching our heads come mid-July when the stockpiles of heirloom tomatoes outpace our ideas of what to do with them. The boring, lazy devil on our shoulders whispers “gazpacho,” but that’s a temptation I always aim to avoid. I developed this salad as a fun take on the flavors of a classic BLT, and you may find it on the Dirt List at Vedge in late summer. Work to get a nice, crispy char on the shiitakes so that they take on a bacon-like smokiness. Better yet, if you’re using