Fazzoletti with Peas and Morels

Like most people, I love pasta, but I’m still dismayed when the only vegetarian offering on a restaurant’s otherwise creative menu is the dreaded token pasta. This dish is mainly a celebration of spring vegetables—it just happens to include a stellar fresh pasta. Semolina flour gives it a nice, punchy resistance on the palate. Keep an eye on the cooking time—when it floats to the top, it’s done. The classic springtime combination of fresh peas and morel mushrooms is timeless, but feel free