A Russian Jewish dish that I learned from my friend Iris when I lived in Los Angeles for a while, way back when. A young photographer, doing freelance work for the LA Weekly, I also worked the graveyard shift in a top photo lab. Finishing at 4 A.M., I’d go dancing to garage music and “Tainted Love” in downtown clubs, then meet up with Iris at Canter’s Deli, which was open 24/7. I even met a dowdy-looking Bette Midler in the queue, lining up with ever
