Black Sesame Rolls

As a child, I loved (and still love!) the instantly overwhelming cacophony of the immense Chinese restaurants or jau lau 酒樓, with the bustle of weekend diners and dim sum cart aunties calling out the dishes and the almost-instantaneous dining gratification. Even before the savory dishes were on the table, I would always be on the lookout for black sesame rolls on the dessert trolley, which I would uncurl and eat little by little like a Fruit Roll-Up. These are traditionally vegan, even in r