This recipe is a culmination of cooking with Mama Wong, who owned Chinese restaurants in Holland and Toronto, and chatting with my friend Choi, whose parents owned a Chinese restaurant in Wales back in the 1970s. Customers would travel for miles to eat Choi’s father’s famous sweet and sour pork. She recalls the restaurant kitchen was always full of citrus, rather than ketchup and vinegar—the ingredients many restaurants use nowadays to crea