Frank’s mother-in-law’s friend’s syrup sponge

Despite the cooking time, this recipe is a doddle that delivers hearty feel-good results. Prepare it, then, 2 hours before pudding, put it on the hob, set the timer, and turn your attention to other things.

Lord Francis runs the Glynde Food and English Wine Festival in East Sussex. I went to his house for a family lunch one rainy weekend and this was served alongside a jug of double cream and another containing hot syrup. The pudding basin was pleasingly large, but