Apple-peel twigs

In the winter of 2012 I was invited by the Swedish tourist board to a dinner held in a private London house, as I had expressed an interest in Scandinavian cooking and was researching for a series I was about to start filming. The dinner was delicious. We started with roe, eggs of the tiny bleak fish, dolloped in greedy spoons on to crispbreads with crème fraîche, black pepper, shallots, dill and lemon. Then came a fabulously rich lamb stew accompanied by the largest mound of simply fried c