Squash purée

Winter squashes — acorn, butternut, crown prince, kabocha — make fine-flavoured purées in different shades of gold. Butternut has the lightest texture, kabocha the most dense. All squashes respond well to spicing: allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander seed and ginger are the ones I use most, sometimes with a dash of whisky or rum, sometimes with honey and lemon juice, or just with butter and cream, as here. Hard-skinned squash can be roasted whole if you prick the skin a few