You will have four double fillets; cut each fillet in half lengthways to give you eight single fillets. Break each asparagus stem in half. Lay fish fillets on a board, skin-side down, and place two asparagus tips and two bottoms on each, then roll up. Start with the fat end and roll towards the tail. Secure tail with a toothpick. If the skin is tough, cut the tiniest hole with a sharp fine knife so you can get the toothpick in.
Place four wide heatproof soup bowls on a tray in the oven. Finely slice lemongrass into rings until it begins to feel a little woody. Discard woody bits. Place fish stock back on the heat and add lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger, garlic and sugar. Simmer 2 minutes.
Take bowls from the oven and divide soup and remaining aromatic ingredients between them, then sit two fish rolls in each.
© 2003 Peter Gordon. All rights reserved.