The Guild-Master’s Tripe Soup

Tripe is an acquired taste. It is rude and lusty and off-colour, which is why we should not abandon it in an age of processed food. Just a few generations ago people were intensely interested in animal innards. Offal, bone and sinew gave them food to eat, musical instruments to play, and footballs to kick around.

Even in Yashim’s time tripe was hardcore. The soup was sold in Istanbul as a hangover cure, which is why the tripe soup shops stay open all night and close before lunch. Bu