No garlic? No butter, or oil? No spices? I first came across this recipe in a little book of Turkish cookery written by the gloriously named Venice Lamb, put out by my English publisher, Faber, in the late 1960s. Weird, even primitive, it tastes very good, and is a speciality of Konya, the seat of the Seljuks, a pre-Ottoman Turkish dynasty who ruled over much of Anatolia in the declining years of the Byzantine Empire. It’s also the birthplace of the Mevlevi sect of Whirling Dervishes. Yashim, who travelled widely in the Ottoman Empire and beyond, would have cooked this in Istanbul, where it is known as kuzu kapama and traditionally heralds the coming of spring.
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