The Sultan’s Ramadan Eggs

• sweet onions, 4 large
• butter 75 g/3 oz

“Up in his apartment, Yashim riddled the stove and set a pan on the coals, for a stock he made with chicken bones and an onion spiced with cloves. He clapped on a lid, blew into his cupped hands, and held them closer to the heat, flexing his fingers.

He peeled and halved the onions, and sliced them thinly on the board while the butter melted in a wide pan. The smell of gently frying oni