Swordfish Grilled in Vine Leaves

Beyond the Mediterranean, many humble local fishes grill as well, and taste as good as swordfish. Try wrapping salmon steaks, small mackerel, sardines, or even trout, gutted and scaled, with their heads and tails poking out at either end. Use fig leaves if you like – best blanched briefly first – and any combination of leafy herbs for the dressing.