Split Loaves (Pain Fendu)

These classic loaves have a split or crease down the middle. You can make pain fendu using any of the basic dough recipes. Knead the dough and let it ferment until it has doubled in volume. Punch down and divide the dough in half to shape into two stubby loaves that taper only slightly—each should be about 9 inches long and about 5 inches wide at the widest point. Sprinkle the loaves with flour, then press a wooden spoon handle or thin dowel into the dough along the length of each loaf. Turn the loaves over onto a sheet pan so the split is on the bottom, then reinforce the split by pressing again, now on the top, with the wooden spoon handle. Let proof until almost doubled in volume, about an hour. Preheat the oven to 450°F and bake the loaves for about 25 minutes, until they are golden brown.