Berkswell (Berkswell, West Midlands)

Half-timbered stone houses, a medieval church and lush green pastures surround Ram Hall Farm in this delightfully picturesque corner of middle England, not too far from Shakespeare country.

Sheila, Stephen and Tessa Fletcher started making ewe’s milk cheese in the mid-1980s experimenting with a Caerphilly recipe, and then tweaking it until they found a formula that was unique to them. The curds are heated, vegetarian rennet added and then left to rest. The milk soon starts setting, and looks similar to a wobbly blancmange when it is cut and then heated again before being placed into moulds in the shape of woven baskets, rather like a Pecorino or Manchego. The finishing touch, before placing in the maturing rooms, is to paint the outside of the cheese with whey to ensure that the rind stays firm but also thin.