Livarot (Normandy)

This is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with an orange washed rind that is gently ridged from the wire racks, and bound with five strips of raffia. The raffia is more decorative than practical, but in the past the cheese was bound in this way to prevent it breaking apart.

It has a springy texture with scattered pinholes, a pungent aroma and a spicy taste. The flavour is achieved by allowing the milk to ‘ripen’ naturally in large ‘baths’ for 24 hours before being heated, after which the rennet is added. Curds are large for easy drainage, and once in the mould, the salting and brining process follows before ripening for 3–4 weeks. Livarot comes from the Pays d’Auge area, and this pocket of Normandy also produces Calvados, which marries well with the cheese, although it is particularly good with robust wine from Burgundy.