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Epoisses (Burgundy)
Appears in
Published 2010
Fromagerie Gaugry is one of two certified larger producers of Epoisses and Ami du Chambertin, and they also make their own version of Soumaintrain and a Petit Creux with its crater-like top in the Langres style. These washed-rind cheeses from the heart of Burgundy are as much a part of the region as the beef breed Charolles, Dijon mustard and the fine wines. This is a soft, tender cow’s milk cheese with a brine-and-Marc-washed rind that turns deep apricot with a wrinkled finish.
There are two schools of thought as to how to enjoy this cheese: either ripened all the way through until almost running away; or almost melting with the centre of the cheese still intact. Smaller than a Camembert but not as stout as an Ami du Chambertin cheese (see opposite) this cheese is easier to ripen and the almost juicy, rich flavours are a rare treat. The brine-and-spirit washing on the rind imparts the characteristic pungent aroma of this cheese. The milk is hand-ladled and drained like Camembert and the ripening period in the cellar is four weeks before selling.