Gaperon á l’ail (Auvergne)

If you place this cow’s cheese in the palm of your hand, cup your fingers around the cheese and very gently squeeze, the texture should be supple, tender and not solid. That is how a farmhouse handmade cheese should be. The cheese is made with partly skimmed milk with the addition of smoky garlic and pepper. The bloomy white moulds should be patted down gently and not allowed to get too thick, since they may peel away from the main body of the cheese and allow off-flavours to develop in air pockets. A younger cheese has a ‘Boursin’ style, while the ripened versions are closer-textured and fruitier.