Saint Marcellin and Saint Félicien (Dauphiné/Isère)

Nowadays it is very rare to find the goat’s cheese versions of these cheeses, and more’s the pity, since they are little mouthfuls of pure luxury. But goat’s milk in this part of France is very seasonal, and in order to make a living cheesemakers are producing the cheeses with cow’s milk. However, if you get one that is properly ripened and almost melting as you break through the rind, its richness will reward you, especially with a lovely Côtes du Rhône wine. It is important with both of these cheeses to allow the moulds to grow as they form a little protective barrier to the cheese, as air-borne bacteria can infiltrate these tender cheeses. The flavour of Saint Marcellin is rich, with a little nuttiness, and the larger Saint Félicien has a slight blackcurrant earthiness to the flavours. When soft and yielding they are delicious, but at certain times of the year when weather conditions alter the flavour of the milk, it is sometimes harder to ripen and they are firmer.