Castelmagno (Cuneo, Piedmont)

This is an ancient cheese from the municipalities of Monterosso Grana, Pradleves and Castelmagno in the province of Cuneo. It comes in various weights between 2–7 kg (4½–15½ lb), although the larger forms are more common. This is a semi-hard, mould-ripened cheese, rather like a Stilton, which is pierced to allow the air to infiltrate the cheese to encourage the blue (which is only really evident in the very mature forms). Very similar to Castelrosso (see below), but the grazing area is very specific and the mixture of milks to the laborious recipe makes it more expensive. The very young cheeses disappoint me and I prefer ripening them on to get that flaky texture and the earthy bitterness to the flavours. It is particularly good when paired with something special like a Barbaresco or Barolo red wine from the region.