Up In Smoke (River’s Edge ChÈvre, Three Ring Farm, Logsden, Oregon

Cheesemaker Pat Morford makes up to 20 different styles of cheese. The herd of goats graze on 5 hectares (12 acres) of pasture and woodland. Up In Smoke is a small 150 g (5½ oz) hand-moulded rindless cheese, wrapped in maple leaves that have been smoked and then dried. The cheeses are smoked over alder and hickory chips, but first the outer leaf wrappings are sprayed with a little bourbon, which keeps the leaves moist and imparts a smokey flavour.