Twig Farm (Middlebury, West Cornwall, Vermont)

Michael Lee and Emily Sunderman are ‘first-generation’ cheesemakers who have made a concerted effort to understand their surroundings and what it has to offer, but have also chosen to be very hands-on in their approach. The people who farm in these parts are called ‘flat-landers’ locally, for the most obvious of reasons, but Twig Farm is hidden down a track through what is like a magic forest of tall, spindly pines and scrubby bush. Here on the stone ledges and outcrops the goats wander and forage. With just 25 goats of their own the pair supplement their milk supply with goat’s milk from a farm in Bridport. They produce three simple styles of cheese that reflect the skills of the cheesemaker. I would choose either a dry cider or a straightforward country-style red wine to serve with all three of these cheeses.