Chinese Black Mushrooms, Dried

The Chinese refer to them as fragrant mushrooms and the Japanese call them shiitake. Almost black in colour, they vary in size and thickness according to their quality and price. Generally speaking, three grades are marketed: the best have floral patterns on the surface of the caps, which curl under (called fa gu in Cantonese and huagu in Mandarin), the second best are those with thick caps, which also curl slightly inwards, and the ordinary ones have thin and flat caps. What is usually available in Chinese stores are packets of mixed quality and size. When reconstituted, they both impart flavours to other ingredients and absorb flavours from them. Among Chinese fungi, they are the most popularly and widely used.