This strongly flavoured summer herb with long narrow leaves is nowadays much used in modern Italian cooking, probably as a result of French influence. It mainly features in sauces for fish, eggs and poultry, although it is also used in salads and as a garnish. A typical sauce based on melted butter, lemon juice and finely chopped tarragon is ideal with poached trout or boiled chicken. Added to vinegar, tarragon imparts a distinctive flavour to any salad dressing. Based on a French idea, I have created a sorbet made with lemon juice, water, sugar and plenty of finely chopped fresh tarragon.