Peking Cabbage

APPEARANCE: A compact barrel shape, pale color, and broadly ribbed leafstalks with crinkled leaves characterize this vegetable. It comes in two styles: long and narrow (12 to 18 by 3 to 4 inches diameter, as illustrated); and short and stout (up to 12 inches long and more than 5 inches in diameter).

QUALITY: Select heavy, compact heads with whole leaves, Both styles taste — and generally cost — the same. Those from Tientsin are considered the best; those slightly wilted are considered sweeter; white heads and leaves are more tender than green.