Chinese Kale

APPEARANCE: Distinguish this from other cabbages by its white flowers, the white haze on its vaguely blue-green leaves, and its overall stoutness. Unlike Chinese flowering cabbage, choi sum, this vegetable has stems which are smooth, not grooved, and which can reach ½ to 1 inch in diameter.

QUALITY: Select plants with unblemished leaves, more flowers in bud than in bloom, and with stalks either very thin (hence no need to peel) or very thick (hence with a large pith, which is a crisp, sweet delicacy).