Squash

APPEARANCE: In America, this vegetable comes in a great range of colors, shapes, and sizes, but in Asia, two varieties seem to prevail. One is plain brown as illustrated here; the other is orange-brown with irregular dark green stripes. Both have bright orange flesh, measure 4 to 10 inches in diameter or length, and can be either round (the Japanese pumpkin) or variously elongated.

QUALITY: Check the skin for worm holes and bruises. Check the stem end for rot, and for the presence of a stem. Fully mature squash fall cleanly off the vine — and will have the sweetest, most tender flesh.