The leaf, not the thin reedy stalk, is the hero in Chinese celery. They have a similar but more intense taste than the pale Western celery leaves and are used as a herb in broths and fritters. Look for sprightly bunches in Asian supermarkets and store in the fridge. You can use regular celery leaves instead (if you can find any as the leaves tend to be scant), but the flavour will be muted.
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