In addition to the blue penicillia, there are the white ones, all strains of P. camemberti, which make the small, milder surface-ripened soft cow’s milk cheeses of northern France, Camembert and Brie and Neufchâtel. The white penicillia create their effects mainly by protein breakdown, which contributes to the creamy texture and provides flavor notes of mushrooms, garlic, and ammonia.
From the book On Food and Cooking (2nd edition) by Harold McGee. © 2004 Harold McGee. By permission of Scribner, a division of Simon & Schuster, Inc.