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By Harold McGee
Published 2004
Celery was a thin-stalked, aromatic but bitter herb called smallage before gardeners developed the mild, thick-stalked vegetable. Apium graveolens is a native of damp European habitats near the sea. The distinctive flavor of its leaves and stalks comes from compounds called phthalides, which it shares with lovage and with walnuts. It also has citrus and fresh notes. Celery is often simmered or sautéed with onions and carrots to provide a broad aromatic base for sauces and braises.
From the book On Food and Cooking (2nd edition) by Harold McGee. © 2004 Harold McGee. By permission of Scribner, a division of Simon & Schuster, Inc.