By Harold McGee
Lovage (Levisticum officinale) is a large western Asian plant that has aromatics in common with celery and oregano, along with a sweet, flowery note. It was used in ancient Greece and Rome and known as Ligurian celery. Today its large lobed leaves flavor beef dishes in central Europe, and tomato sauces in Liguria. Elsewhere it’s little known.
From the book On Food and Cooking (2nd edition) by Harold McGee. © 2004 Harold McGee. By permission of Scribner, a division of Simon & Schuster, Inc.