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On Food and Cooking

By Harold McGee

Published 2004

  • About

Tamari names a kind of Japanese soy sauce closest to its Chinese original: made with little or no wheat, and therefore poor in alcohol and fruity esters derived from it, but with a darker color and richer flavor thanks to the higher concentration of soybean amino acids. Today tamari is sometimes stabilized with added alcohol, which makes its aroma closer to that of ordinary shoyu. Even stronger than true tamari is twice-fermented saishikomi, made by making up the mash not with salt water, but with a previous batch of soy sauce.

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