Appears in
On Food and Cooking

By Harold McGee

Published 2004

  • About

Chew on a small piece of dough, and it becomes more compact but persists as a gum-like, elastic mass, the residue that the Chinese named “the muscle of flour” and that we call gluten. It consists mainly of protein, and includes what may well be the largest protein molecules to be found in the natural world. These remarkable molecules are what give wheat dough its liveliness and make raised breads possible.