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By Harold McGee
Published 2004
Far to the west of China, in the homeland of wheat, the earliest indications of pasta-like preparations come in the 6th century. A 9th century Syrian text gives the Arabic name itriya to a preparation of semolina dough shaped into strings and dried. In 11th-century Paris, mention is made of vermicelli, or “little worms.” In the 12th century—around 200 years before