Hoja Santa

I have been trying to bring true Mexican flavors to the U.S. for almost fifteen years and have had many ups and downs with crucial ingredients. At times this essential herb (Piper auritum or P. sanctum) has been difficult to find in the fresh rather than dried state. Now its importance is being recognized and the fresh herb is much more available. (See Mail Order Sources.) It is as preferable to the dried variety as fresh basil is to dried basil.

The heart-shaped fresh leaves are a beautiful dark green and have a vivid herbal flavor that reminds me a little of anise, though hoja santa is more complex. The leaves are usually between 6 to 8 inches long, big enough to make small wrapped packets enclosing pieces of food. But in addition to being used as wrappers they are often puréed with other ingredients in sauces. The brittle dried leaves can be used for the latter purpose but are too fragile for wrappers.