Frying

This produces a firmer, less fragile texture when the chile is to be stuffed and batter-fried or baked. (Griddle-roasting makes them very soft.) Rinse the chiles under cold running water and dry very thoroughly. Make a short (1- to 1½-inch) lengthwise slit in each chile to allow steam to escape during frying. Pour vegetable oil into a medium-size skillet to a depth of about ½ inch; heat over high heat until almost smoking. Add the chiles two at a time; cook, turning frequently with tongs, until they puff up and take on an olive-beige color on all sides. Remove the chiles to a platter as they are done, let cool slightly, and carefully peel under cold running water. Pull out the seeds through the slit, working very gently to avoid tearing the flesh.