Ustilago maydis

Huitlacoche or cuitlacoche (Ustilago maydis) is corn smut, a type of fungus that invades the growing ears of corn, causing the kernels to swell into gray or blue-black masses. Farmers take vigilant measures against it in the United States, and home gardeners throw away “smutty” ears in disgust. In Mexico we consider it our truffle!

Until now fresh huitlacoche has rarely been sold in the United States, though it can be bought in the American Southwest and at some Mexican supermarkets and I hear that it will soon be more widely marketed. When found growing on corn in most parts of this country, it is completely different from the Mexican product. The kernels of American sweet corn yield a milder-flavored huitlacoche than Mexican varieties. I hope that fresh huitlacoche will one day be widely available throughout the United States, as are such products as the kiwi fruit and jícama. Meanwhile, you have to hunt for it. The demand for it is high in Mexico and the supply is both seasonal and iffy, fluctuating with the amount of rainfall. During high season (July through October), the Herdez canning factory buys what it can and processes it into a wonderful product, sold in 8-ounce cans, which I use thankfully. However, even the canned variety is expensive and not plentiful, particularly in early summer when the previous year’s supply is exhausted. My mother has to search constantly for it in supermarkets all over Mexico to keep me supplied in New York City.