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Food from My Heart: Cuisines of Mexico Remembered and Reimagined

By Zarela Martínez

Published 1992

  • About

Maguey, inaccurately called “cactus” by some U.S. writers, is actually a general term used for various large succulents of the Agave genus with long, thick, tapering leaves (pencas) that grow in a rosette pattern around a central “heart.” Maguey species grow in many different parts of Mexico from north to south.

Maguey has had many uses since pre-Columbian times, not only in cooking. It is still one of the central plants in Mexican culture. However, the magueys are best known internationally as the source of pulque, mezcal, and tequila. One of the most prized natural wrappings used in Mexican cuisine is mixiote, obtained by stripping the thin, transparent outer layer from maguey leaves. Mixiote is virtually unobtainable in the United States, unless you can get a friend to bring you some from Mexico. Parchment paper would be the closest equivalent. But in any case there are now legal restrictions on the use of mixiote because stripping it off the pencas kills the whole plant.

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